Locally Joe: Joe goes to Brazil
In crossing off one of the things on my bucket list, I was able to explore a new and exciting culture of cuisine. The last couple of weeks, I had the pleasure of visiting Brazil and attending the Olympic games.
The food at the venues was so bad that it didn’t even get off of the starting line. But, luckily, most of my gastronomical encounters outside the stadiums was medal worthy.
Like the USA, Brazil is a melting pot of cultures. Brazil’s cuisine is influenced by the traditions brought by immigrants from Europe, Africa and Asia. Coupled with native recipes, a fusion menu was created.
We started our culinary journey in the state of Bahia and worked our way south to Rio. Our oldest daughter was an exchange student in Bahia, so we visited her family and friends As in most of Brazil, lunch is the big meal of the day. So our first meal was a big one. We started with churrasco (Brazilian barbecue) and I thought that was it, but that was just the appetizer. We then had a meal of many different amazing dishes along with beer, caprininha and dessert. That was our first meal, and many more were to follow.
The food, in Brazil was as varied as the Olympic sports, but I have broken them down into what I consider my medal stand.
Gold: Obviously churrasco would be our record-breaking winner. It is the Brazilian barbecue, slow roasted and then served off of skewers on to your plates. Churrasco consists of sausage, chicken, beefs, cheese, breads, and chicken heart.
Farofa is a staple on every table. It is made with manioc flour toasted with butter used as a topping for many Brazilian staples or paired with bacon, herbs, sausage and other things to create a side dish. It is also Manioc root is the Usain Bolt of the Brazilian Cuisine. It was used by the natives and adopted by the immigrants as a substitute for the potato. It is fried, baked, shredded, milled as flour, pureed, grilled, etc.
Feijoada is the national Brazilian Dish. It is a black bean and meat stew that has a smokey, deep flavor and served over rice. Brigadeiro has also made it to the gold medal stand, this is Brazil’s version of a chocolate truffle that has many applications. Also, diving across the line for gold is Pao De Aueijo, which is Brazilian cheese bread. These are addicting little rolls served at all meals.
The silver medal winners are represented first by acaraje. In Bahia, you actually have your own favorite acaraje cook also called “Baiana” and you get it at her street stand. It is a deep fried bean cake, which is then traditionally stuffed with shrimp. Our Baiana was Sonia. Pastels are next and are filled pastries similar to empanadas. Pastels are found almost anywhere street foods are sold and in most restaurants. They are filled with meat, chicken, ham, cheese or hearts of palm. Similar to the pastel are empada, which are small pies filled with shrimp, chicken and vegetables and also sweet fillings such as fruits, jams and pumpkin. Carne de sol or jaba, is beef that is dried in the sun for two days and then pan-fried or baked.
Cuscuz, steamed corn meal or manioc tapioca is a breakfast staple and delicious served with sweet coconut milk. Also receiving the silver is queijo coalho, which is a firm, lightweight tasty cheese. It is usually served and toasted on the beaches of Brazil by beach vendors, who travel with their own portable oven. It is served with oregano and molasses.
Leading the charge for the bronze medal is Beiju. It is like a taco shell made from tapioca starch. Tapioca is derived from, you guessed it, the manioc root. It is sifted onto a griddle or pan and toasted, then filled with savory or sweet fillings. It is joined by bobo, a seafood, manioc and coconut milk stew. Requeijao is a runny cream cheese that made a great spread for the morning toast. Rounding out the bronze medal round was the hot dog from the street vendors. You can get them topped with not only ketchup, mustard and onions, but also corn, peas, fried potatoes, black beans, mayo, and yes, quail eggs.
Although I got to enjoy the Gold, silver and bronze medal performances by our athletes from the USA, it was a bonus to get the same on the culinary scale from our hosts, restaurants and the street vendors of Brazil.
Pao De Queijo
2 cups tapioca flour
1 cup milk
½ cup butter or oil
Pinch salt
2 eggs
1 ½ cup Parmesan cheese
Bring milk and butter to a boil. Pull pan off of stove and beat in flour. Using a mixer (or by hand) beat milk and flour until cooler. Beat in eggs one at a time and then Parmesan cheese. Use a small disher or tablespoon, place on cookie sheet about 2 inches apart. Bake for 25 minutes on 350 degrees.
Brigadeiro
14-ounce can condensed milk
1 tablespoon butter
3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa
Cook milk and butter adding cocoa when butter and melted. Keep stirring for about 10 minutes and allow to cool. Form into balls and roll in chocolate sprinkles or use as topping or spoon into dishes like mousse.
Feijoada
1 cup dry beans
1 pound pork
½ pound bacon chopped
1 smoked ham hock
3-quart chicken stock or salted water
1 large onion minced
2 clove garlic minced
1 jalapeño pepper chopped
2 tablespoons oil
½ pound chorizo or sausage of choice
Salt and pepper
Soak beans overnight in water. In stock pot or Dutch oven, render bacon. Add beef and pork, ham hock and chicken stock. Simmer until meats are tender, about 45 minutes to an hour. Strain and set aside beef, retain liquid. In same pot, sweat onion in oil, add garlic. Add reserved liquid and simmer beans until soft, 45 minutes. Add reserved meat, jalapeño and sausage. Adjust with salt and pepper after 10 minutes. Serve with rice.
Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.