Locally Carei: Easter eats
When it comes to Easter dinner, ham is the king. There are many reasons why it is a favorite to be the centerpiece of the table. Although it accounts for nearly 70 percent of all Easter dinners, the cuter more symbolic Easter animals are making a small comeback on the table.
The biggest question usually is, “how is ham so popular, when Jesus was Jewish.” Followers of the Jewish faith are forbidden to eat pork products. Ham first got its foothold (or cloven foothold) as early as the beginning of the Middle Ages. It coincided with success of curing and storing the hind quarters of the pig. So when Easter was early and the spring lamb was not ready, a ham was available, hanging in the cure house. Plus, Christians had no rules about eating pork.
Growing up, we had ham on our Easter table, but lamb was present, too. There was a time that lamb was once a more prevalent choice for the Easter meal. We know that Jesus had lamb for his Passover meal. But the lamb industry suffered two blows near the middle of the last century. Before this, it was more popular than ham. First, in the ’30s, the ham industry did such a great job marketing ham, it had nearly overtaken lamb as the most popular Easter meal. Then during World War II, the soldiers ate so much lamb and mutton (older sheep), that they were sick of it. After the war, ham had taken over lamb, duck and rabbit as the most popular meal on the Easter table.
Duck has found its way to some Easter tables. For many it is a secondary entr茅e. Most people avoid duck, because they feel it is too greasy. But, if cooked correctly, it is a great spring celebratory meal. It has not gained the popularity that it deserves.
Rabbit, although more popular on the European Easter table, has not really found its spring festival niche in America. It probably ‘boils’ down fear of cooking the Easter bunny. But, during World War II, while the soldiers were eating mutton, the U.S. government was encouraging people to raise and eat rabbits. Most people say rabbit taste like chicken, but if you eat it more than once, it tastes like rabbit. Rabbit is a superfood; it is higher in protein but lower in cholesterol than beef or pork. Also, it is six times cheaper to raise a pound of rabbit meat than a pound of beef. But because of supply and demand, the price is not much different.
The price point of ham is probably its best marketing tool, it is down in price from last year. If ham is your choice, make sure you are getting the right ham. There are a few rules to follow when buying ham. Get a ham with just ham or ham with natural juices listed. Those with added water or water product, avoid. A butt ham is tastier and more tender than a shank ham. If you buy a spiral ham, be careful because they dry out quickly. Bone-in hams have better flavor.
Leg of lamb is usually available in the grocer’s meat case, if not ask the meat department and they usually can get it for you. It will be priced 3-4 times higher per pound than a cheap ham. It is available bone-in or boneless, I recommend both.
Duck is not as easy to find, but it’s there — usually frozen. You would be hard pressed to find rabbit in the local supermarket. Whole foods had it, but PETA put an end to that. You can find it at several shops in the Pittsburgh strip district including Strip District Meats and Wholeys. Best case scenario, you may find it in your back yard.
Cooking your ham: For a small ham under 6 pounds you will need about 20 minutes per pound at 325 degrees. For a 10-pound ham, 12-15 minutes a pound. For bone in ham, figure about 2-3 minutes per pound less cooking time. The best way to see if it is hot enough is to use your thermometer, 140 degrees is ideal.
Cooking your leg of lamb: Season your leg of lamb with your choice of rub. Broil for 15-20 minutes at 425 degrees, then reduce to 325 degrees. Cook for about 15 minutes per pound for rare, 20 minutes for medium rare. Use of a thermometer is best: For rare cook to internal temperature of 125 degrees; medium rare 135, medium 145. I would not go over cooking it medium.
Cooking whole duck: Prick duck skin and season inside and out. Cook for about 20-25 minutes per pound. My duck cooking rule is 1/3, 1/3, 1/3. Cook on high temp (425) for 1/3 of cooking time (if it is a 6-pound, 45 minutes) breast side up, reduce temperature (375) and cook breast side down for 1/3 cooking time, then return to breast side up. Cook on a raised rack in a roasting pan. If you do not have a rack, carefully remove grease from pan each time you turn the duck. Cook to internal temperature of 165 degrees.
Cooking Rabbit: Rabbit is a lean meat so it can be dried out very easily. I like to braise rabbit. Season it and brown in a heavy skillet with butter or bacon. Then put in pan with chicken stock, carrots, celery and onion, simmer, covered for 30 minutes per pound. Roast or bake it, but make sure it is a young rabbit. If it is too old, it will be tough.
Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie Mae’s Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.