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Locally Carei: Food trends for 2017 come full circle

By Joe Carei for The 5 min read

Back to the future is the theme for food trends this year.

The macro/micro/mad scientist approach to food is giving way. We are looking to more pure global foods while also reverting to old school cooking and preserving. In checking in with our local food sources, it seems to be pointing in that direction.

Farm-to-table is still on the forefront, I think that it is not a trend anymore. Most chefs feel that it makes sense to be farm-to-table from a taste and marketing standpoint. Farmers still value their relationships with the restaurants, but would like to reach the consumer more for everyday choices. Mark Duda of Duda’s Farm hopes to see more direct to consumer. “We are going to concentrate more on our primary crops this year. Sell what we are good at, because that is what most people want.” He also sees more canning by home cooks.

Craft cow cheese seems to be taking over goat cheese. Small dairy farms are pairing with cheesemakers to help move more of their product. “Our relationship with our dairy supplier, just up the road, ensures our cheeses are always high quality,” says Linda Kling of High Country Creamery and Market, in Grantsville, Maryland. The flavored cheese curds are very popular. Bill Jackson of Jackson Farms also has cheese on his brain. “We’re thinking about making cheese. It’s something we’ve discussed for a while.” He is also seeing a shift in the milk we are drinking. “Whole milk is seeing a resurgence over skim.”

Butcher Paul Haines of Haines Custom Meats in Gibbon Glade, also is targeting the home cooks with his look to the future. He feels that farm raised meat and beef in general will be bigger this year. “People are continually adding locally-raised products to their kitchen, and they seem to want more and more prime cuts of naturally raised beef,” said Haines.

Lamb and pork is also seeing an upswing. Rogers Claasen of Redrange Farm is creating his own trend. He is working to perfect a lamb ham, cured similar to a porcine ham. “I am looking for ways to market our lamb, and it seemed and tasted like a great idea,” Said Claasen.

Farm fresh eggs are making a splash on restaurant menus. They are not just for breakfast anymore. The bright golden color and texture of egg yolk is adding dimension to dinner entrees. Ellen Swartzfager is excited about the continued push toward farm fresh eggs. “They are better for all and creates a tasty, healthy life,” she said.

I see cauliflower as this year’s Brussel sprouts. Mashed, grilled and fried, all will work. Although, Susan Yurkovich , owner of 12 Oaks Restaurant in Brownsville feels that the brussels craze will continue into 2017. “People come just for our brussels; with balsamic glaze and pancetta bacon. I also think that Southern inspired foods will be hot in the new year,” says Yurkovich. Other ‘meaty’ vegetables may be a larger part of a meal in 2017. Broccoli, cabbage, beets and root vegetables will take main dish roles this year.

Sour is the new sweet. Chef Teddy Smith, of the Foundry Restaurant in Oliver, is looking at fermenting as part of his menu and in his bar. He is also looking at the rise of charcuterie to continue to be a popular appetizer option. His hands-on approach to butchering makes for creative menu selections.”We just did snout to tail processing of a pig, and we will use all of it in the restaurant, especially for charcuterie,” said Smith. Charcuterie is the art of cured and dried meats.

I am looking to chefs going back to their roots. Classic French dishes, and classic Asian and Italian dishes will grace menus. Fusion cooking will take a back seat to the basics. Dishes like; Coq au vin, char sui pork and ossobucco could make a comeback.

Although food and food preparation is always changing, sometimes, it just comes full circle.

Simple Kimchee — Fermented Korean Vegetables

1 small head cabbage or napa cabbage

1 bunch of green onions

2 carrots

1 bunch radishes

1 tablespoon fresh ginger

3 cloves garlic chopped

2 tablespoons dried chili peppers or 3 fresh chili peppers

3 tablespoons sea or pickling salt

1 tablespoon fish sauce (optional)

Shred or thin cut vegetables, toss in salt and let sit a couple of hours. Mince garlic and chili peppers. Mix into vegetable with fish sauce. Pack into jar(s) tight. Fill with hot water until vegetables are covered. Seal jar. Let sit at room temperature for 24 hours, open jar to let out gas. Let sit another 48 hours-week. Refrigerate and serve as needed.

Coq au vin

1 tablespoon Olive oil

Whole chicken cut up or 4 sets of leg quarters

6 slices bacon

1 small onion diced

1 stalk celery diced

1 carrot diced

3 tablesoons flour

2 cloves garlic

1 bay leaf

1 cup red wine

1½ cups chicken stock

¼ cup butter

2 cups sliced mushrooms

1 cup Pearl onions

1 teaspoon dry Thyme, or 4-5 springs fresh

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

Preheat oven at 350 degrees. Heat oil in heavy bottomed pot or pan. Saute bacon until crisp, set aside. Add chicken skin side down and brown on both sides, place in large baking dish. Add carrots, celery and onions and cook until almost carmelized. Add butter, garlic and mushrooms and cook down. Top chicken with vegetables and bacon. Leave fat in pan, add flour and cook one minute. Deglaze pan with red wine, add chicken stock and herbs. Reduce for a few minutes and pour over chicken and vegetables. Top with pearl onions. Cover and bake for 45 minutes.

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