Locally Carei: Good eats along the National Road continues
Here is another column celebrating the 200th anniversary of the National Road.
By the 1850s, technology had taken over the United States. The railroad has found its way all across American and the need for the road was becoming obsolete. By 1872, Harpers Weekly had declared the National Road dead. Many of the taverns and wagon stands went out of business and were demolished or turned into private residences. Even Iconic places, such as the Globe Inn in Washington, which hosted five presidents and General Lafayette, were not immune to progress (or lack thereof) and was torn down in 1881. By the start of the 20th century, just a handful of taverns had endured.
But, technology would again revive the National Road, known by the turn of the century as the “Old Pike”. The invention of the automobile would revive the road, as those with cars took to the roads to rediscover and enjoy the motorways. Since, the national road was already in place, it was one again nearly bustling like the ‘old pike’ days.
The Remaining taverns and the wagon stands were repurposed or replaced by the hotels, tourist homes, auto camps and roadside restaurants. The hotels at that time catered to the affluent. Enterprising individuals would open their homes to travelers. These were called tourist homes, not boarding houses, and would lodge travelers for a night or two akin to an Air BNB of the early 1900s. Early on,with auto camps, you were on your own when it came to food. There would be areas to pitch a tent and tables to eat your picnic foods you brought with you. And that was the end of the amenities. Eventually, some with property on the national road would build cabins to profit from the influx of motorists and small roadside restaurants followed.
Hotels and restaurants that would stand out from the auto-touring era would, of course, be the Summit Inn, a favorite of Henry Ford. The Titlow Hotel did a fair trade from this era and the Watering Trough took advantage of this new source of income to open a restaurant that would stand for another seven or so decades. Old standards such as the Fayette Springs Hotel (Stone House) and Century Inn in Scenery Hill still did a fine job feeding the travelers on the National Road. Travelling west the Hotel in Beallsville and the Washington Hotel in Washington took care of those on the road. The Rosemire Inn in Claysville, fed one to the state line.
By the 1920s, there were restaurants and lunch stands along the roads. After WWI, refrigeration was commercially available. Restaurants were able to serve a more varied menu as the produce from California and Florida was made accessible as they were shipped on refrigerated rail cars and as well as meats and fish. New and exciting establishments began to start businesses changed the way the tourist ate. GorleyĢƵ Hotel on the National Road in Farmington (now the Bruderhof Community) boasted itself as a ‘tonic for the mind and body,’ had separate dining rooms for men and women. Tea rooms and food influenced by them were inserting themselves into menus.
The menus were directly affected by what was happening in the big cities. As travelers or owners traveled, they brought ideas for dishes and kept menus shifting and changing. Hotels like the Waldorf Astoria and restaurants, like Delmonicos, influenced the menus early on in the touring age. But there was a shift in dining due to prohibition bringing on cheaper food made faster. Takeout food was becoming popular, too. Who wanted to hang out, without a libation or two, to make you enjoy the establishment. Even faster food was getting popular. In Brownsville, Fiddles opened in 1918 and was attached to the local Packard garage. Shortly thereafter, places like ShortyĢƵ opened in Washington and everybody opened in Uniontown.
The Depression virtually ended the auto-touring age and the National Road became just a link between towns and villages.
Tomato Bouillon, a tea room classic
1/2 stick butter
1 small onion, diced
1 stick celery, diced
3 14-oz cans tomatoes in juice
2 teaspoons sugar
Bay leaf
Salt and pepper
Sweat onion and celery in butter. Add tomatoes, sugar and bay leaf. Simmer for 30 minutes. Pull bay leaf and crush tomatoes. Strain through cheesecloth. Season with salt and pepper. Garnish with cooked vegetables or cheese.
Mina FordĢƵ (HenryĢƵ wife) Deviled Crab
Appropriate for the auto touring age.
1/3 cup butter
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 tablespoon flour
1 tablespoon Worchestershire sauce
2 eggs
½ teaspoon salt
½ cup cream
2 cups crab meat or meat from about 12 crabs.
½ cup diced celery
Cream butter and add flour, Worchestershire and mustard. Fold in rest of ingredients. Return to crab shells or place in six buttered ramekins. Top with buttered breadcrumbs and bake 25 minutes at 350 degrees.
Chicken Ala King, one of those dishes for which everyone takes credit and everyone served.
2 tablespoons butter
1 small green pepper
½ pound mushrooms
2 tablespoons flour
1 pint cream
Salt and pepper
1 pound leftover chicken, diced
¼ cup chopped pimento
2 egg yolks
¼ cup butter
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Splash sherry
Sweat peppers and mushrooms in butter until softened. Add flour and cook a couple of minutes. Whisk in cream and reduce a little. Add chicken and simmer low. Separately, mix together yolks, butter and lemon juice. Whisk into dish. Simmer a little more. Adjust with salt and pepper and add sherry. Serve over toast points, rice or egg noodles. Feel free to add other ingredients such as peas, corn etc.