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Locally Carei: Restaurants along the National Road evolve

By Joe Carei for The 6 min read
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For a while after the 1930s, most restaurants on the National Road were relegated to doing business with those in town. During the great depression, the idea of going for a drive down the National Road did not exist. Hotels and motels were used by travelers, but mostly for purposeful trips.

Despite the depression and the threat of war, the number of restaurants continued to grow on National Road. But, they did so mainly in the towns. There was the Crystal, FrancisĢƵ, Pettys, The Cadillac Lounge, Chunks, of course IsalyĢƵ and Hagans. IsalyĢƵ and Hagans had several restaurants in several towns along the pike. IsalyĢƵ drew them in with their chipped chopped ham and world famous Klondike bars. While travel was not prevalent, the local restaurants were bustling.

Because of women being in the labor force, because of the war, the restaurant industry saw a 300 percent increase in meals served during that time. While the roadside stands were closing down, the mom and pop and little restaurants were bustling. By the early 1940s, there were 83 restaurants/confectioners in downtown Uniontown alone.

The food at this time and for decades to follow was, for the most part, family style. For the first time, most people were eating out to replace the meals at home. Fancy chefs and different foods would not suffice, a ‘mom’ or ‘pop’ type cook was what they were looking for. Places like Bettys Lunch, Country Home BBQ, White House lunch, Herrings and ParnellĢƵ diner fit the bill. Meatloaf, open-faced turkey and broiled fish were on the menu.

In the late 1940s and 1950s, the road was used to get from one dance hall to another. Restaurants were influenced by the baby boomers and their kids. Soda shops and luncheonettes became hangouts, and where you went before or after a dance. Hamburgers, fries and milkshakes were the go-to at those establishments. Places like Chunks and RuseĢƵ Roost were touting their great meat patty. Dancing and live music was big business. If you had the space, you had a nightclub in your restaurant. You could catch The Del Trio, Mickey Sharp, Diana Horne or The Bobby Jones Trio at Dunlevys in Addison, Finells, The Village Barn, NickyĢƵ Steakhouse in Beallsville, Club LaSalle or Speedway Dine and Dance. PaciĢƵ cashed in on the big bands and singers. Dean Martin and Jimmy Durante performed there. Taylors and The TurkeyĢƵ Nest were the party spots heading east.

Because of the war, appreciation for ethnic foods grew in popularity, especially Italian Restaurants. There were restaurants with the name of Villa Rosa, Pascaluccis, Orsinis, Cudellas, along with stalwarts The Venetian and MeloniĢƵ in Uniontown, Naples in Brownsville, HugoĢƵ in Centerville and AngeloĢƵ in Washington.

The 1950s saw Glisans, which became a mountain standard with their reputation for pies and breads. And it was consistent. Isa Glisan never missed a day of work until she was 92 years old. Howard Johnson in Hopwood and Washington, set the bar on dining. Chef Harold “Baron” Galand ran the Hopwood store. Famous Chef Jacques Pepin told the author that he and the Baron would collaborate on menu items The American Culinary Federation has the National Harold “Baron” Galand Knowledge Bowl; a culinary competition for students, annually.

Here are some recipes or interpretations from that era.

IsalyĢƵ Chipped Chopped Ham BBQ

1 pound chipped chopped ham

¼ cup vinegar

2 tablespoons water

4 teaspoons sugar

½ cup ketchup

Paprika

½ teaspoon dry mustard.

Heat all ingredients in sauce pot. When sugar is dissolved, toss in ham. Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Serve on bun or toasted bread.

Mountain Bread

Bread was essential and restaurants like Glisans and the RavenĢƵ Inn served bread like this

1 cup warm water

1 cup warm milk

2/3 cup sugar

2 packs dry yeast

½ tablespoon salt

1/4 cup vegetable oil

6 cups bread flour (could be less or more depending on humidity)

½ cup melted butter

Dissolve sugar and yeast in water/milk. Mix a little and let set for a few minutes. Add salt and oil.

In mixing bowl, incorporate flour 1 cup at a time. If using mixer, once dough pulls away from bowl, you should be good. Knead for 5 minutes with mixer. If doing by hand, mix until just a little stick and knead for 12 or so minutes. Dough should be elastic and smooth when finished. Let rise for about an hour in bowl covered with damp towel. After it has doubled in size. Knead dough a few more minutes, then divide into two loaves or 18-24 rolls. Place in greased loaf pans or popover or muffin tins. Brush with butter and bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes. Rolls will take around 18 minutes depending on size. To check if done, tap top and listen for hollow sound or use probe thermometer and 190 degrees is done. Brush with more butter and get ready…

Hojos Fried Clams

1 cup evaporated milk

1 cup milk

1 egg

¼ teaspoon vanilla

Dash salt and pepper

4 dozen freshly shucked clams or strips(if you can find them)

1 cup cake flour

1 cup yellow cornmeal

Oil for frying

Instructions

Combine evaporated milk and whole milk, egg, vanilla, salt, and pepper. Soak clams in liquid and then dredge in combination of cake flour and cornmeal, fluffing them in the flour mixture for light but thorough coverage. Shake off excess flour and fry in oil. Serve with French-fried potatoes, tartar sauce, homemade rolls, and butter.

From Anthony Mitchell SammarcoĢƵ A History of Howard JohnsonĢƵ: How a Massachusetts Soda Fountain Became an American Icon (Charleston, SC: The History Press, 2013)

Welsh Rarebit

Was found in both fancy and homestyle in the ’40s and ’50s up and down the pike.

4 slices toasted bread

¼ cup butter

1 tablespoon flour

1/3 cup beer

2 tablespoon milk

1 teaspoon dry mustard

Dash of worchestershire

Pinch pepper

1 large Egg yolk

2 cups shredded cheese (cheddar is better)

Heat up butter and mix in flour Add rest of ingredients(you can substitute beer with more milk). Cook until incorporated and smooth. Do not boil. Pour/spread on toast and place in broiler for a minute or two until cheese is toasted. Serve. Makes four servings.

This is part of a series, which will be a cookbook for the National Road Heritage Park. The cookbook will be available in early November and ready for the holidays. There will also be a dinner in early November to sample items in the cookbook. We are also looking for copies of old local restaurant menus to borrow. Visit the nationroadpa.org for updates.

Chef Joe Carei has been an award-winning chef in Fayette County nearly half of his life. The former PA Restaurateur of the Year now operates Ellie MaeĢƵ Catering and Food Clubs. He can be reached at joe@elliemaescatering.com.

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